From Dust to Green- The road to Ethiopia

From Dust to Green- The road to Ethiopia

The bridge between Sudan and Ethiopia.

July 12^th 2013- At Lake Tana, Western Ethiopia.

I MADE IT! Ethiopia!

Changing vehicles in Gedaref, Eastern Sudan.

Our bus to Ethiopia.

I have crossed some pretty incredible borders in my life, but the stark contrast between these two needed to be recorded.

I have to say, in review I truly loved Sudan. Not for the Sharia law, or the no alcohol, or the blazing heat, but mainly for the people of Sudan. It is a difficult terrain, sustained only by their life line, the Nile, flowing south from Uganda and from the East in Ethiopia. I noticed in the few days I was gone from Khartoum that the Blue Nile has begun to swell, and I kept thinking, is it really raining that much in Ethiopia? It must be so lush! I had no idea what I was about to encounter.

The dry "dusty" plains of Eastern Sudan.

I left Kassala, in depths of the Sahara, and ventured to the city of Gedaref, the junction town that can take you south to the war torn province of Blue Nile state, or east to the high lands of Ethiopia. I switched mini buses and onwards I went, as the sun began to set in the distance one of the men sitting beside me pointed to the mountains in the distance, he said in broken english “ There, there, ETHIOPIA!”. It was quite surreal, and then we suddenly stopped and I was treated to my last foray of Sudanese hospitality, as we broken the Ramadan fast with a date fruit and ate and drank to our hearts content as the sun set over those mighty mountains.

Breaking the fast with a date.

Last supper in Sudan, a fine display of hospitality.

We set off again for the town of Gallabat, where I would spend my last night in Sudan. We arrived after dark, and I set up shop in a “Lokanda”, a Sudanese hostel, surrounded by dozens of other wary travellers awaiting to trade goods with the Ethiopians across the border. I enjoyed some fine Sudanese coffee, some sheesha and the cries of the mighty mosque standing over the town, “ALLAHHHHH ALAKBAR!”.

Heading East to the Mountains of Ethiopia.

Last night in Gallabat, Sudan.

I went to sleep pondering this incredible experience, and also what lies ahead across that border.

I had lit a candle at a church in Khartoum, praying to Saint Matthew, the Apostle that brought Christianity to Ethiopia two millennia ago, asking him to pray for me and guide me to the land where he had walked all the way from Jerusalem. Well, he must have said some pretty nice words to god for me, as I awoke the next day and stared across at a land greener than anything I had seen for weeks.

Thanks for the help Saint Matthew.

Customs formalities were a breeze, and the Sudanese officials were kind and cordial, thanking me for visiting and hoping that “inshallah” (God willing) I will visit  Sudan again.

Crossing into the border city of Metema, I was in some ways overwhelmed by what I was seeing. The women no longer covered their hair, beer advertisements were everywhere and this land, aided by a great deal of rain the night before my muddy and GREEN!

I boarded a mini bus and onwards I went to the historic city of Gonder in Western Ethiopia’s highlands. The bus seemed like it never stopped climbing the vast mountains, and all around me I saw green hills, orchards , coffee plantations and people everywhere working the land.

Ethiopians crossing the border to trade goods in Sudan.

The green mountains of the Ethiopian highlands. 

I knew right there on this bus trip that Ethiopia is a special place, and it is going to be an excellent part of this adventure.

Our mini bus trip to Gonder in Western Ethiopia.

I arrived in Gonder, set up shop at a nice little guest house and began my preparations for the rest of the country with an ice cold brew, a rarity in the land I had just come from.

Who ever knew a fresh brew could taste so good!

The famous coffee of Ethiopia, called Buna in Amharic.

Stay tuned for more on Ethiopia as tomorrow I shall venture to the great Blue Nile falls. Plenty of photos of articles are to follow in this ancient land full of mystery, fantastic landscapes and lovely smiling people.

Cheers to all.

William Delaney

Eastern Sudan- On the edge of Eritrea

Eastern Sudan- On the edge of Eritrea

Standing in the "Gush" river, with the Taka mountains behind, on the Edge of Eritrea.

July 10^th 2013- Kassala, Eastern Sudan.

This part of the journey was not part of my original plan for Sudan, as my jet east for Ethiopia was more of a direct route to avoid any trouble down in Blue Nile state. However, one night I was online and I got in touch with my friend from high school Meron Hambton. Meron is of Eritrean ancestry and informed me he was born outside of Eritrea in the Sudan, nearby to the town of Kassala. Then it struck me! I knew another friend, Biniam, who also was born in a camp in Sudan outside of his ancestral home in Eritrea. With an opportunity to see Eritrean culture without actually being able to go inside Eritrea, I could not say no. My good friend Adele is half Eritrea, and is one of the kindest and fantastic people I know to boot, I just had to do this!

Chilling with some Jebena in Kassala.

I was not disapointed. I arrived on the eve of Ramadan to the wafting scent of Eritrean coffee, surrounded by the stunning Taka mountains, the natural barrier that separates Sudan from Eritrea.

Cooking up a storm in Kassala.

I figured the first thing I should do after a grueling bus ride was go for a run. I jogged about the town, waving to locals, and they waved backed smiling, but also looking a bit puzzled, as I was surely the only white person in town, and to boot, people don’t normally go jogging in this part of the world. The stories I have from jogging on my travels are priceless and at some point I will write a book entitled “Jogging around the world”.

The busy streets of Kassala pre Ramadan.

Needless to say, after a quick shower I went about in search of some Eritrean food, and some company for the evening. I wandered about the town and was hailed down by about a dozen different people for “jebena”, or coffee in Sudanese Arabic. I was buzzed beyond belief by the power of this spicey concoction, so I knew sleep was going to be short on this night, lol.

Sun set over the Gush river , and Ramadan is set to begin!

OK, the gush river got the best of me.

I ate some dinner, and went to smoke some sheesha at the local hang out in the centre of town. As it was the final night before Ramadan, the town plaza was busier than time square (ok that is a bit exadurated, lol, but you get the idea). I was hailed down by a few fellas, non Arabs, men who claimed to be of Eritrean heritage, and one of them spoke very good English. We talked the night away, from the politics of Sudan, to the Egyptian revolution next door, to the sad state of affairs across the mountains in Eritrea. 

Chilling the night away in Kassala with some Eritrean's.

They explained to me that Eritreans come across the border to stock up on fresh fruit and other commodities that are largely unavailable to them, and many stay and work in Sudan as refugees. I have to say it was one of the most informative conversations I have had in Sudan, but all the while I kept very quiet (which many of you know if difficult for me), as discussing politics in Sudan can land you in very big trouble if you take the wrong side. These gentlemen even invited to take me across the border, citing they know the guards well, and that their villages is right along the “gush” river, right at the border. The gush river was ironically dry at this moment, which I got a good kick out of, but as the rains come down over in Ethiopia and Eritrea it apparently has quite the flow from August until October.

Beyond those beautiful mountains lies one of the most closed countries on earth.

Regardless, I went back to my hotel after a lovely day and night in this border town and began my preparations to go to Ethiopia. As I was packing I turned on the TV, and wouldn’t you know it, one of my favourite films comes on, Titanic! Since I was still buzzed on the caffeine from all that pungent Eritrean coffee, I sat down and watched the entire film. One scene struck me in the film in reference to my trip so far. It was the scene when Leonardo DiCaprio (Jack Dawson), sits down for dinner with all the first class people and they begin to interrogate him about this “lifestyle”, he responds “Life is a gift, and I don’t intend on wasting it, just yesterday I was sleeping under a bridge, and today I am sitting here having champagne with you fine people”. 

Titanic on Arabic TV, a good sign.

You just never know where you are going to end up, or who you will meet, and to me that is so exciting. I got a sudden surge of energy and took this fine message as a good sign for the rest of my trip.

After a long day’s journey I write now at the border of town of Gallabat, on the Sudanese and Ethiopian border. The journey in Sudan is coming to a close and as like Leo in Titanic, I am sleeping the night in a “Lokanda”(A Sudanese version of a hostel), surrounded by flies, and dozens of locals preparing to make the crossing, but I cannot be more excited about what lies waiting across that border in the green hills of Ethiopia!

Kassala bus station, onwards to Ethiopia!

Cheers to all back home and abroad.

God bless.

William Delaney

Northern Sudan- Pyramids a Plenty!

July 8th, 2013.

Up top at the Pyramids of Nuri, near Karima, North Sudan.

A few days ago I left Khartoum to embark on a journey North to follow the Nile to a land where a great ancient civilization existed.

As many of you know, I have been to Egypt two times before and have seen the fantastic Pyramids of Giza, the Valley of the Kings and Mount Sinai. Each time I visited these places I was awe inspired by the shear beauty that lay before me, but little did I know what I was about to encounter here in the Northern reaches of The Sudan.

Our mini bus conductor, chillin on the road North.

Leaving the luxury of the Acropole Hotel of Khartoum behind, I found myself on a bus full of locals headed to the city of Karima, home to the famous Jebel Barkal (Jebel in Arabic means mountain). This mountain which overlooks the mighty Nile was a famous site upon which the ancient Kingdom of Kush laid to rest their mighty rulers and at times clashed the mighty kingdom to the North, Egypt.

I had heard of the Sudanese pyramids before, and how there may be more Pyramids in this country than the famous one to the North. And well with Egypt currently in revolt, I felt this may be the most opportune time to check out these pyramids just in case the situation spills over the border.

Pharaoh face on Jebel Barkal.

The pyramids of Karima sit right on the outside of town, similar to how the Pyramids of Giza sit right on the edge of Cairo, yet despite this, when one visits the pyramids, there is not a person to be seen! I was the only one here, and they had to specially open the museum for me, as I lay around with the security guard waiting for the museum clerk to come and get things started so I could buy my entry ticket, lol.

Full view of the Holy Mountain of Jebel Barkal.

I wandered about at these first set of pyramids, taking them all in, and then hiking up to the top of this ancient holy mountain, which has a cut out of the Pharaohs head on its outskirts, from here I over looked the Nile. A serious case of deja vu  hit me here as I overlooked this river of life, it reminded me of the time I climbed to the top of the valley of the kings with my good friend Tyler Richardson back in 2007, to see how the Nile snakes through the Sahara.

View over Nile Valley and Karima from Jebel Barkal.

 It was surreal watching the sunset over this great valley, and I had it once again, all to myself. I stayed a pleasant homestay in Karima, owned by a man named Ahmed Mousa.

Hieroglyphics inside the tombs at El Kurru. 

His little chicken filled court yard at the foot of this mountain was a pleasant place, where even I for a brief moment relaxed.

Pyramids of Karima.

The next day Ahmed arranged a taxi driver to take me to the pyramids across the river at Nuri. These pyramids were slightly larger, but housed an even more impressive mix of hieroglyphics in some of the tombs, as good as any I saw in the valley of the kings at Luxor. Once again, I was the only person to be found at this site, with the minor exception of a small heard of goats tended by a group of little children who were all to eager to come and make my acquaintance.

The only other folks at the pyramids. A few children and their herd of goats.

The pyramids of Nuri, across the river from Karima.

After this wonderful stay in Karima I made my way to the city of Atbara, a major junction point for all the roads leading to the North East of Sudan. Here I spent a night in the "lokanda", a type of transit hotel, for 15 Sudanese pounds (or just over 2 US dollars). I was invited to dine with a number of men on their way to Port Sudan, and once again in good Sudanese fashion I was the honored guest and was unable to pay for anything, including dinner, the hookah pipe and coffee that followed and our short taxi back to the hotel.

Walking through the blazing sands of the Sahara.

Sudan is such interesting culture, a melting pot of Arab tribes, and the colors and shades of the people are so diverse. Yet despite their ethnicity or tribal affiliation, they are so kind and hospitable, and safety has never been an issue. A fine example was after dinner the small boy who had been stoking the coals of our hookah I offered a small tip, 2 Sudanese pounds. He would not accept and simply smiled at me and said "welcome". I was baffled, but here I began to understand, this is a culture of giving, not taking and it is this kindness which I hope to keep and export with me back to Canada when I return to teach middle school this fall.

The Lokanda where I stayed in Atbara.

Grand Mosque, Atbara.

After a some what haggered sleep at the Lokanda  in Atbara I hopped a small mini bus to the town of Shendi, where the great Pyramids of Begrawiya are found, said to the the finest in Sudan. I got the driver to drop me at the side of the highway and I walked towards the pyramids, about a mile off the road.

In the blazing heat I began to walk, and seemingly out of no where came a man on camel back, shouting to me, WELCOME IN SUDAN! He then asked me if I cared for a lift to the pyramids, I declined as they were about 100 metres away, lol, but the gesture was all to kind. It felt like a moment out of "Lawrence of Arabia".

The camel man who appeared out of no where at Begrawiya.

I reached the gate and went into the pyramid complex, expecting that this being the best site in all of Sudan there would have to be at least SOMEONE else there, but it was not to be. It was my third set of Pyramids where I was once again alone. These final pyramids were indeed the largest and most extensive I have seen in Sudan, and I took all the pictures and videos I could to soak up this amazing experience.

The Meroe pyramids at Begrawiya.

 Afterwards I sat under a tent with the gatekeeper and the camel rider and we enjoyed a coffee before I would embark on my way back to Khartoum. It was not until after the coffee and a short period of relaxation to grab my energy back from the sweltering heat that I realized, just how exactly am I going to get back to Khartoum?

The men just said, go to the highway and hitch a ride.... I thought... Hitch hiking in Sudan??? Well.... I guess it is my only option.

Hitch hiking back to Khartoum.

I went to the highway and began to walk, I felt like the lad out of the movie "Into the Wild", just straying along the desert road hoping a vehicle would eventually pick me up. After a few failed attempts I managed to flag down a bus, and onwards we went on a 4 hour gruelling hot journey to Khartoum.

What a wild adventure it was to see all these ancient sites, and to have them all to myself. To meet such an incredible group of people, and share my experiences in Northern Sudan with such kind and helpful people all along the way.

I will rest tonight here in Khartoum, on the eve of Ramadan, before setting out tomorrow onwards to Ethiopia.

Wishing everyone well back home and abroad and a special thanks to all those that made Northern Sudan such an amazing experience.

Next up, the Eastern road of Sudan to the border with Ethiopia and the ancient Christian city of Gonder.

Cheers,

William

Kicking off in Khartoum

Kicking off in Khartoum

July 5^th 2013

Arab tribesmen bring their cattle from all over Sudan to Khartoum.

For many months now I have been planning this trip, grabbing ideas from people, the internet, the media, anything I could find to inform me about Sudan. What is this place? What makes it so scary to so many people?

I remember going for dinner at a friend’s place in Toronto back in January, and we sat and discussed why I was choosing to come to Sudan. She said to me, “Are you outside your mind? What could possibly make you want to go to this place? Are you not afraid?????”. To be honest with you, yes I was afraid in some ways, but part of the reason I go on these journeys is to break down barriers and open up the world I see to my friends, my colleagues, my students and many others that I do not even know.

Meeting some of these fine men from all over Sudan.

My friend, Christina, sat me down with a bottle of Peruvian dark rum and we watched, “The devil road in on horseback”, a film about the Janjaweed, the Arab Militia of Darfur. During the course of this 80 minute film of intense suspense and imagery we drank the entire bottle. I fell asleep wondering, was I making the right call to come to Sudan?

My fine hosts at the camel market.

I sit here now in my hotel room in Khartoum, pondering the thoughts about that night, and the so many conversations I have had with friends and family about this trip to East Africa.

My experience in Khartoum and its surrounding cities has been anything but like that film I watched that one winter’s night in Toronto. That does not mean that the events depicted in the film are not true, but to paint the entire nation of Sudan with a brush as so many of us do is simply inaccurate. Sipping that rum and arguing with Christina about that film and about Sudan, I kept saying to her, “This is only one piece of the puzzle, I want to hear the other side”.

Being stopped for coffee by locals constantly, just a fine bunch of folks all across Khartoum.

I went out to the desert outside Khartoum to a camel market where Arab tribesmen from all over Sudan bring their cattle and camels to sell or trade in this market. I sat down for coffee with many of these desert Arab tribesmen, and their kindness and hospitality was like none other than I have seen. These are the same Arab tribesmen we hear so much about in the media, and possibly even the same men depicted in that film I watched in Toronto. They lit a small fire of incense, wafting it throughout the room, I felt as if I was being hosted by royalty. They spiced coffee they served was among the best and the strongest I have ever had, and their curiosity and intrigue about myself and why I had come to The Sudan was fascinating and exciting to both of us.

Coptic Christian Church of Saint George. I discovered that here in Khartoum as in many parts of the Muslim world, the people are very tolerant of Christians. And when I tell them I am a Christian they embrace me. A fantastic show of Sudanese hospitality.

This meeting with the Arab tribesmen is just beginning, and only a small hint of the hospitality I have received thus far in The Sudan.

Saint Matthews Catholic Cathedral and School.

Everywhere I go, I am stopped and asked to join for coffee, lunch, a juice, or just a simple chat. Can I ever pay? NO! The people are as friendly as anything, they do not beg, harass, or pester you. They give you the right way, always wave to say “Salam” or “Hello”. 

My hotel owner George, has to be one of the nicest and most helpful people I have ever met and the operation he is running has set me up for success in Sudan. Helping me to get my travel and photo permits, along with my Ethiopian VISA, bus tickets, local information and so much more. I am truly blessed to be having such an experience.

The Blue Nile Bridge.

Sudan in many ways is a mysterious land, a place that at times feels very much like the Middle East, but also at times feels very African, yet it is neither, it is simply “The Sudan”, a place like none other and a place I intend to explore much further.

Sudanese Coffee, bringing people together.

I shall head north tomorrow to Karima, to see the sites of the pyramids of Nuri, after which I will circle back south to Shendi, and the pyramids of Meroe before returning to Khartoum and making my way to Ethiopia.

The Great Mosque of North Khartoum

This journey has kicked off far better than anyone could have ever imagined and I hope to carry this momentum into the rest trip as I strive to reach Mt Kilimanjaro by August!

God Bless all of the people of the Sudan that I have met so far and have been so incredible.

I wish all those back home and abroad reading this the very best.

Sincerely,

William Delaney

The mighty blue Nile flowing west to meet the White Nile in Khartoum.

Sunset over Tuti Island, where the two Niles meet. What spectacular view with the city of Omdurman  in the distance.

Sudan Bound- The Bags are packed!

Sudan Bound- The Bags are packed. June 30^th 2013

Packing for the adventure, lol. It is an art.

Everything can happen so fast, it seems like only yesterday I stood in front of my grade 8 home room class and announced to them that “I WAS GOING TO AFRICA”. Since that time back in March so much has happened, everyday has been a new adventure, a new opportunity, and what a whirlwind of excitement and opportunity life has been.

Pearson International.

Each time a new opportunity came up; I felt I was getting one step closer to Africa, one step closer to the Nile, the rift valley, to Kilimanjaro, to the jungles of Madagascar and to the vineyards of Cape Town. I got a call for a job in April, to teach at a high school for the rest of the year. At first I turned it down, citing my coming trip to Africa, but after a quick shower and a roller coaster of thoughts, I called them back and went for the interview. I got the job, teaching grade 11, I changed the dates of the trip to accommodate this new job, and this new job led to a full time teaching job next year at one of the finest junior high schools in the city. You never know at the moment when you make a big decision what will come of it, but I have to say, taking that job was one of the best decisions I have ever made.

Transferring from domestic to International.

I have learned over the course of the last 6 years on my adventures to take chances, not to be afraid of making those hard decisions, the types of decisions many shy away from in the 21^st century. I met many new friends, became a better teacher and had a group of students that inspired me to carry on with the life I am choosing to lead.

Packing the bags today, going out for a final few drinks with some friends and knowing that when I board that plane bound for Khartoum that the game is on! It is finally here and I cannot wait to get started.

I sit now at Pearson International Airport in Toronto, bound for Frankfurt, and onwards to Khartoum. I have a plan, but as I have seen the last few months, what we start with, and where we end up can be completely different, and I am very fine with that. A quote from one of my favourite films, The Prince of Egypt, “A single thread in a tapestry, though its colour brightly shines, can never see its purpose, in the pattern of the grand design” holds true to this time in my life. Life is an adventure and an opportunity, and I am going to explore it to the fullest.

Check in to Europe, one step closer!

My next update shall come from the roof top of the Acropole hotel in central Khartoum, overlooking where the two Niles meet, and where the East Africa Odyssey will officially begin.

A special shout out to all my friends that made my final weekend at home so memorable. Chase, Steph, Aaryn, the three of you are true beauties, and thanks so much for supporting this adventure.

Cheers to all, and continue to tune in for more updates.

William

One step closer!!!