From Dust to Green- The road to Ethiopia

From Dust to Green- The road to Ethiopia

The bridge between Sudan and Ethiopia.

July 12^th 2013- At Lake Tana, Western Ethiopia.

I MADE IT! Ethiopia!

Changing vehicles in Gedaref, Eastern Sudan.

Our bus to Ethiopia.

I have crossed some pretty incredible borders in my life, but the stark contrast between these two needed to be recorded.

I have to say, in review I truly loved Sudan. Not for the Sharia law, or the no alcohol, or the blazing heat, but mainly for the people of Sudan. It is a difficult terrain, sustained only by their life line, the Nile, flowing south from Uganda and from the East in Ethiopia. I noticed in the few days I was gone from Khartoum that the Blue Nile has begun to swell, and I kept thinking, is it really raining that much in Ethiopia? It must be so lush! I had no idea what I was about to encounter.

The dry "dusty" plains of Eastern Sudan.

I left Kassala, in depths of the Sahara, and ventured to the city of Gedaref, the junction town that can take you south to the war torn province of Blue Nile state, or east to the high lands of Ethiopia. I switched mini buses and onwards I went, as the sun began to set in the distance one of the men sitting beside me pointed to the mountains in the distance, he said in broken english “ There, there, ETHIOPIA!”. It was quite surreal, and then we suddenly stopped and I was treated to my last foray of Sudanese hospitality, as we broken the Ramadan fast with a date fruit and ate and drank to our hearts content as the sun set over those mighty mountains.

Breaking the fast with a date.

Last supper in Sudan, a fine display of hospitality.

We set off again for the town of Gallabat, where I would spend my last night in Sudan. We arrived after dark, and I set up shop in a “Lokanda”, a Sudanese hostel, surrounded by dozens of other wary travellers awaiting to trade goods with the Ethiopians across the border. I enjoyed some fine Sudanese coffee, some sheesha and the cries of the mighty mosque standing over the town, “ALLAHHHHH ALAKBAR!”.

Heading East to the Mountains of Ethiopia.

Last night in Gallabat, Sudan.

I went to sleep pondering this incredible experience, and also what lies ahead across that border.

I had lit a candle at a church in Khartoum, praying to Saint Matthew, the Apostle that brought Christianity to Ethiopia two millennia ago, asking him to pray for me and guide me to the land where he had walked all the way from Jerusalem. Well, he must have said some pretty nice words to god for me, as I awoke the next day and stared across at a land greener than anything I had seen for weeks.

Thanks for the help Saint Matthew.

Customs formalities were a breeze, and the Sudanese officials were kind and cordial, thanking me for visiting and hoping that “inshallah” (God willing) I will visit  Sudan again.

Crossing into the border city of Metema, I was in some ways overwhelmed by what I was seeing. The women no longer covered their hair, beer advertisements were everywhere and this land, aided by a great deal of rain the night before my muddy and GREEN!

I boarded a mini bus and onwards I went to the historic city of Gonder in Western Ethiopia’s highlands. The bus seemed like it never stopped climbing the vast mountains, and all around me I saw green hills, orchards , coffee plantations and people everywhere working the land.

Ethiopians crossing the border to trade goods in Sudan.

The green mountains of the Ethiopian highlands. 

I knew right there on this bus trip that Ethiopia is a special place, and it is going to be an excellent part of this adventure.

Our mini bus trip to Gonder in Western Ethiopia.

I arrived in Gonder, set up shop at a nice little guest house and began my preparations for the rest of the country with an ice cold brew, a rarity in the land I had just come from.

Who ever knew a fresh brew could taste so good!

The famous coffee of Ethiopia, called Buna in Amharic.

Stay tuned for more on Ethiopia as tomorrow I shall venture to the great Blue Nile falls. Plenty of photos of articles are to follow in this ancient land full of mystery, fantastic landscapes and lovely smiling people.

Cheers to all.

William Delaney