Hyenas of Harar

Eastern Ethiopia- Harar

July 19^th 2013

Hyenas of Harar

Feeding the Hyena! WOWZA!

As was discussed in the last post, the journey to Eastern Ethiopia and onwards to Somalia was originally put on hold. However, the more people I met, raving about Harar and how different the East was from the West of the country, this opportunity could not be passed up, and let me tell you, IT WAS WELL WORTH IT!

The flight route went through Dire Dawa, where a met a newly engaged Scottish couple, Jamie and Natalie. The three of us embarked on the short hop over to Harar.

Bustling markets of Harar from my window.

Harar is an ancient walled city, home to the heart of Islamic Ethiopia, and the change of pace in life, the curtsy of the people, and the cool high land air made this a wonder stop over on the road to Somaliland. We set about our day by first indulging in the local brew, “Harar Beer”, advertised all over the country, but hard to come by outside of Harar. 

Shoa Gate of Harar old town.

A fine Lager.

Needless to say, after a couple pints, the three of us were ready to go. We explored the maze of the old city, taking in the wild markets, which our hotel gave an outstanding view of from above. We had heard that at dusk there was a famous Hyena feeding, where by one can have the opportunity to feed these wild beasts, it was too good to pass up.  

The mazes of the old city of Harar.

By night fall, we went about in search of the Hyenas, sitting there as the sun went down, and literally like clockwork, with the calls of the locals, the Hyena pack began to appear out of the darkness, their incessant cackling, and glowing eyes. This was the first time I had seen these animals since a wild Braai night in Zimbabwe, where we lured them in by stopping our truck and stormed away before they could nab us. So needless to say, with the memory of how sneaky and dangerous these dogs were in Zim, I was not all that keen to get face to face with one. The locals reassured us that these Hyenas are a bit more tame than the ones in the wilds of the Zambezi valley, but still I was a tad sceptical.

Fallana Gate at dusk, time to find some Hyenas.

 Jamie was the first to go about feeding the beasts, and after watching this Scottish warrior’s courage, I guess a bit of my Irish blood kicked in and I went for it. You place a piece of meat on a stick, in your mouth, and the Hyena comes as grabs it, WHAT A RUSH! It was exciting none the less, maybe not the most sanitary, but who cares, it has to be one of the coolest things I have done of my travels. 

Scottish courage.

We then watched a bus load of Ethiopian from Addis frantically go about their turns with the Hyenas. They got pretty excited, and the evening continued to become increasingly awesome.

The famed beasts of Harar.

We spent the night hanging with a few other travellers we met at our hotel, crushing back the local brew and telling tales of our mutual adventures. I have to say, due to the destinations of choice on this trip, I have few moments to just chill at a hostel and share stories, so needless to say, this was long over due, and by the end of the night between the five of us, the table was littered with bottles, all in good fun.

Bound for Somaliland.

I awoke the next day, pounded back a couple fine Ethiopian coffees, and a big breakfast, for I am about to enter the land of Ramadan once again, and fasting shall be in good order. It is time to grab a bus and head EAST! Onwards to Somaliland!

Cheers to all those I met in Harar and those reading back home.

William Delaney